lingerie made by women in the slums of Manila

Can be found soon more Peruvian poncho or basket Wicker in fair trade. Now place of delightful nightshirts fine cotton, food in bamboo studied design or seductive baggies felt and boiled wool. In the heart of the 6th half of fair trade from April 29 to May 14, "trade, not aid" philosophy ("of trade, assistance step") is ever more topical. "For a long time, it relied on a target of militant consumers." Today, the quality and attractiveness go first. "Fair trade is not and should not be an alternative to the charity, it allows the autonomy and responsibility, and defends respect for human rights," demonstrates Laurent Levard, Delegate General of the fédération Artisans du Monde. Indeed, the concept slowly but surely left activist purchase planet to invest by buying pleasure and, more broadly, the responsible purchasing.

The entry of clothing and objects of decoration on this market has largely contributed to debunk the clichés "baba cool." New brands claim ethics on the label. Thus the fair basketball Veja, made from natural rubber harvested in the Amazon and organic cotton from cooperatives of the Brazil, which won its small success at the Galeries Lafayette and spring. Or brand Althéane, specializing in fine night sold on the cheap in Paris and... lingerie made by women in the slums of Manila.

"Until now, the principle was not considered very flattering distribution buyers." They preferred same is silent our affiliation to an NGO. "Now they ask us to explain our approach, like the Camif, this summer, we opened the pages of the catalogue", says Alexandra Coiffé, Director of Althéane. Major brands are there launch they also: more than 20 now argue the label Max Havelaar, only guarantee recognized to date in respect of the fair die: of Celio at La Redoute via Kindy, Rica Lewis, Ushuïa or Armor Lux. The latter has already sold 200,000 labeled parts and develops its market to businesses and communities. The quimpéroise company and has to dress up the letter carriers to post fair organic cotton.

The exhibitions also open their Windows: ready-to-wear has now its pole of ethical fashion and Maison & object named his own "eco-logis". Finally, in early April, Max Havelaar organized a fashion show to mark the "one year" of cotton. Today, it is the turn of the cosmetic to reach this approach with Themis, first mark care fair for the label, which already 250 points of sale in France to his credit. "They opened a new path in the cosmetic and, as in fashion, prove that the consumer can follow the trend, while working for the good economic", welcomes Emmanuelle Cheilan, Association Max Havelaar.

A view shared by Alexandra Coiffé, which stresses the importance "of having a brand creation process not hesitating to explain and explain back to the consumer the ins and outs without fear of classical marketing." Next June, it will outline its new line of clothing for children at the children's fashion show.

Follow the taste of the consumer

Especially, awareness of advocates of fair trade is now essential to offer products to the taste of consumers dictate their approach. "To make this perennial stream, be anchor it in the expectations and desires of customers", said Cédric Barennes, Director associate of Umae, brand of decorative objects created by French designers and manufactured by artisans in Madagascar and Cameroon, thereby "creating rather than import". Its products are distributed in more than 70 shops in France, of which two-thirds do not belong to the network of fair trade. "Marketing is the positioning of the product and its design, not on its margin." Design. "We cannot charge low prices, paying double Chinese rates, without counting the cost of the development of the brand through fairs with a view, for a budget of EUR 16,000 per year", defending Alexandra Coiffé, whose clothes Althéane oscillate around 90 euro coin.

The traditional actors do not remain on the margins of this evolution. As Artisans of the world, committed for the first time, which is now appeal to stylists to evolve the designs of local artisans. "But this is a still delicate compromise", admits Lawrence Levard. The historical sign also develops its stores and professionalizes them. A new concept should see the day this fall in the 13th arrondissement of Paris and will be followed by a fortnight of openings. "It is a strong break with our past." "Our growth is now by salaried employment and, in two years, we brought our workforce employed 80 people", added the General delegate. For its part, Alter Mundi started the concept of "living" boutique franchise, both point of sale and cultural space and is the opening of a dozen stores here in 2007. Finally, the creation of its platform, Fair Place, now brings a decade of players in the sector in fashion and decoration and participates in the professionalization of the sector by combining the networks and skills. Registry fair of de du projets charité du projets charité "of du projets charité projets charité projects charity", welcomed Nicolas Messio, Better even, they fall in the US, the image of this culinary workshop based on fair trade products, which will be held on 4 may, or ethical market at Wild Cabaret on 14 may with parades, concerts and debates.

For the leaders of the Salon Maison & object, there is no doubt that "after a consumption of niche fair trade might become a mass consumption." With a flat.

David against Goliath

If the consumer is increasingly sensitive to the fair 65 dimension themselves willing to pay 10 more if they are sure that this additional cost will improve the living conditions of the poorest countries, according to a TNS Sofres for "The Pilgrim" survey, traditional actors of trade are still on their old reflexes. The enthusiasm of customers avoid the traditional forces report in which the major distributors have used to exert pressure on their suppliers. However, some are willing to amend their practices, such as the cheap, who agreed to Althéane a settlement 30 days. The fair trade mark could, however, get the same conditions of the Galeries Lafayette, have applied to a settlement in 90 days and a resumption of unsold ad hoc commercial operation. "David against Goliath, admits Alexandra Coiffé.". I will repeat a test on the child range, because it is new. But our societies are still torn between the need to sell and the envy of slamming the door to those that impose us impossible conditions. "The players in the sector of ethical fashion are suddenly being together to constitute a Charter and"advancing in rank close to little pine customers. "

Not to mention another risk, and not least, the competition of the profiteers (and many more) claiming the approach without however to respect the rules. Bet that the response these days in the Direction of consumption to denounce "too frequent abnormalities" in fair trade should help them to defend their commitment.